How To Clean Washing Machine Filter

Forget Perfume. Let’s Talk Filth. Cleaning Your Washing Machine Filter is Not Optional.

Look, nobody wants to think about the gunk lurking in their washing machine. It’s not glamorous. But if your clothes are coming out funky, your machine’s groaning like a dying whale, or your drain cycle’s taking longer than a Netflix binge, guess what? You’re probably ignoring your washing machine filter. And honestly? That’s just lazy. This guide tells you how to clean washing machine filter, so you can stop the stink and the shoddiness.

I remember my first washer. Bought it used. Smelled like a gym sock left in a sauna. For months, I just blasted it with bleach and extra rinse cycles. Dumb. The thing is, the lint trap, the drain pump filter – whatever you waa call it – was clogged solid. Cost me a fortune in wasted detergent and a pair of ruined bedsheets before I finally figured it out. Don’t be me.

Why Bother? Because Your Machine Hates You (When It’s Dirty).

It Kills Performance.

A clogged filter chokes the water flow. It’s like trying to drink through a straw clogged with peanut butter. Your machine works harder, drains slower, and frankly, just doesn’t clean worth a damn. Your “clean” clothes are probably just… less dirty.

It’s a Mold Farm.

That trapped lint? It holds onto moisture. Moisture breeds mold and mildew. That’s the source of the funk, my friends. Suddenly, your favorite sweater smells like a swamp. Great.

It Kills Your Machine.

Seriously. Motors overheat, pumps burn out. Ignoring this simple task can turn a $600 appliance into a $600 paperweight faster than you can say “expensive mistake.” A new washing machine, depending on features, can run anywhere from $500 to $1500. You waa spend that because you skipped 15 minutes of maintenance?

Locating That Grimy Little Bastard.

Front-Loaders: The Usual Suspect.

Most front-load washers hide their filter behind a small access panel. It’s usually down low, near the front, often on the bottom right. You might need a flathead screwdriver or a coin to pry it open. Be gentle, but firm. Don’t hack at it.

I saw a guy online, a real doofus, who tried to rip the panel off with pliers. Shattered the plastic. Had to buy a whole new front panel for his machine. Idiot. Take your time. If you can’t find it, check your machine’s manual. That little booklet? It’s actually useful sometimes.

Top-Loaders: It Varies.

Some top-loaders have an internal lint filter that clips inside the drum, usually near the agitator. Others? They might not have a user-accessible filter at all, relying on a pump filter that’s trickier to get to. For those, you’re often looking at accessing it from the back or bottom of the machine. Again, the manual is your friend.

The Drain Pump Filter: The Real Villain.

This is the one most people mean when they talk about the filter. It’s designed to catch bigger debris before it hits the drain pump. Coins, buttons, rogue socks – they all end up here. This is the filter that gets REALLY nasty.

The Actual How-To: Step-by-Step Or You’ll Screw It Up.

Prep Work: Don’t Drown Your Kitchen.

1. Unplug the damn machine. Seriously. Electrocution is NOT the way to a cleaner laundry room.
2. Grab towels. Lots of ’em. You’re goa need them. There’s always water. Always.
3. Get a shallow pan or basin. This catches the inevitable water spill. Aim for something maybe 2 inches deep.

The Filter Extraction: Brace Yourself.

For front-loaders, find that access panel. Open it up. You’ll see a round cap, probably plastic. Unscrew it SLOWLY. Let the water drain into your pan. This can take a minute or two. Don’t rush it. Once the water stops, give it a final twist and pull the filter out.

This is where it gets gross. You’ll see lint, hair, maybe some slime. Possibly even a lost earring. My sister found a whole Barbie shoe in hers once. How? Who knows. The point is, it’s there.

Cleaning Time: Get Your Hands Dirty.

Take the filter to a sink. Rinse it under ruing water. Use an old toothbrush or a small brush to scrub away any stubborn gunk. If it’s really bad, a little dish soap or white vinegar can help break down the grime. Rinse it thoroughly until it looks… well, less offensive.

While the filter’s out, check the housing inside the machine. Use a flashlight. Grab a damp cloth and wipe out any accessible residue. Get in there. Be thorough. This is not the time for half-assing it.

Reassembly: Don’t Screw It Up.

Slide the clean filter back into its slot. Screw the cap on TIGHT. You don’t want leaks. Close the access panel. Plug the machine back in.

Frequency: How Often Should You Do This Hellish Task?

Honestly? It depends on your usage. If you’re washing a lot of heavy-duty stuff, like work clothes or towels, maybe every 1-2 months. For a typical household doing laundry 2-3 times a week, every 3-6 months is a decent starting point. The thing is, pay attention to your machine. If it starts acting up, the filter is the first place you look.

My neighbor skips it for a year. Then wonders why his expensive Bosch washer is making grinding noises. Yeah, buddy. Shocker.

What If I Can’t Find It or It’s Too Hard?

If you’ve got a machine where the filter’s buried deep, or you’re just not comfortable diving into the mechanical guts of your appliance, then call a professional. Seriously. A technician will charge maybe $100-$200 for a service call. That’s a lot cheaper than a new pump or motor, which could be $300-$500 just for the part, plus labor.

Look at it this way: Appliance repair techs see this stuff daily. They know the tricks. They have the tools. It’s probably a 30-minute job for them. You might spend 3 hours wrestling with it and still not get it right.

Common Filter Fouls: What You’ll Find.

It’s a gross buffet in there. We’re talking:

• Lint: Obvious, but the sheer volume can be shocking.
• Hair: Pet hair, human hair – it all gums up the works.
• Coins: Quarters, dimes, nickels. Pesky little things.
• Buttons: The little plastic invaders.
• Small Objects: Pen caps, paperclips, stray Lego pieces (don’t ask).
• Slime/Gunk: This is the byproduct of trapped moisture and detergent residue. Nasty.

A Quick Comparison: Filter Types & Issues

Filter Type	Common Location	Typical Issues	Cleaning Difficulty
Internal Lint Filter (Top Load)	Inside drum, near agitator	Lint buildup, can detach	Easy
Drain Pump Filter (Front Load)	Front bottom access panel	Heavy lint, coins, debris, slime	Moderate (due to water spillage)
External Filter (Some Models)	Back or bottom of machine	Similar to pump filter, harder access	Hard

See? It’s not rocket science, but it’s not exactly a walk in the park either. The key is consistency. Don’t wait for problems.

Pro-Tips Nobody Tells You.

Check Coin Traps.

Some machines have separate coin traps before the main pump filter. If yours does, check that too. They’re usually smaller and easier to access.

Vinegar Rinse.

After cleaning the filter, run a hot wash cycle with nothing in it but a cup or two of white vinegar. This helps deodorize and break down any remaining gunk inside the machine itself.

Inspect Hoses.

While you’re back there, give the drain hose a quick check for kinks or blockages. A collapsed hose can mimic filter problems.

The Bottom Line?

Cleaning your washing machine filter isn’t just maintenance; it’s preventative care. It saves you money, prevents smells, and keeps your clothes actually clean. Stop making excuses. Grab those towels, find that filter, and get it done. Your machine—and your nose—will thank you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need to clean my washing machine filter?

Yes. Absolutely. If you don’t, you risk poor cleaning performance, foul odors from mold and mildew, and potential damage to your machine’s pump and motor, leading to expensive repairs or premature replacement. It’s a small task with big benefits.

How do I know if my washer has a filter to clean?

Most front-loading washers have an easily accessible filter behind a panel, usually at the bottom front. Top-loaders may have an internal filter inside the drum or a less accessible pump filter. If unsure, consult your washing machine’s manual – it’s the definitive source for your specific model.

How often should you clean the drain pump on a washing machine?

Ideally, you should inspect and clean the drain pump filter every 3 to 6 months for average use. If you wash heavy items like towels or work clothes frequently, or have pets, you might need to clean it every 1 to 2 months. Listen to your machine; if it drains slowly or sounds strained, check the filter sooner.

Can a clogged filter make my clothes smell bad?

Yes, absolutely. A dirty filter traps lint, hair, and detergent residue, creating a damp environment perfect for mold and mildew growth. This funk transfers to your laundry, leaving clothes smelling musty or sour even after a wash cycle.

What happens if I never clean my washing machine filter?

If you never clean your washing machine filter, you’ll likely experience decreased performance (slow draining, poor rinsing), persistent bad odors in your laundry, increased wear and tear on the drain pump motor due to strain, and a higher risk of complete machine breakdown, leading to costly repairs.